Saigon is perhaps the last bastion of the “xe lam,” a three-wheeled vehicle that once dominated Vietnam’s streets. Today, these repurposed carts offer a unique and charming dining experience.
Saigon food cart
Unlike fancy restaurants, “xe lam” eateries exude simplicity. A refurbished cart, a few plastic tables and chairs, tucked away in alleys or street corners – that’s all it takes to create a vibrant dining spot.
“Xe lam” owners are often working-class individuals who migrated to Saigon seeking better opportunities. Starting as street vendors, they gradually saved enough to purchase a used “xe lam,” which serves as both transportation and a livelihood.
Mr. Nguyen Van Binh, owner of a “bun rieu” (crab and tomato noodle soup) cart on Nguyen Trai Street, District 5, shared, “My family moved here from Can Tho over 10 years ago. We started with a pushcart, enduring harsh weather conditions. Saving up allowed us to buy this ‘xe lam,’ making life a little easier.”
Xe lam owner cooking noodles
As the saying goes, “xe lam” stalls attract customers with their affordability and simple fare. Menus typically feature popular Vietnamese dishes like “bun rieu,” “hu tieu” (pork noodle soup), “banh mi” (Vietnamese baguette sandwich), and “com tam” (broken rice), all at surprisingly low prices.
“I often have breakfast at the ‘xe lam’ stall near my office. It’s quick, cheap, and delicious,” said Ms. Le Thi Hoa, an office worker in District 1.
Xe Lam stalls are typically found in densely populated areas, near schools, hospitals, and offices. You can easily find them on streets like:
Food safety is always a concern. However, not all “xe lam” stalls have poor hygiene. Choose stalls that look clean, have proper food covering, and use fresh ingredients.
Besides food, many “xe lam” stalls also sell beverages, coffee, and cigarettes.
Despite modernization, “xe lam” stalls remain a cherished part of Saigon’s cultural fabric. Experience authentic Vietnamese cuisine and the city’s vibrant street life by visiting a “xe lam” stall.
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